1 recipe Horseradish Cream (see below), or prepared horseradish or mustard, optional
4 sprigs sage, for garnish, optional
2 pounds beef bones, meat and trimmings
3 carrots, chopped
2 small onions, chopped
2 cups hot water
1 leek, chopped
1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped
2 tomatoes, quartered (or 1 cup canned plum tomatoes, with liquid)
3 garlic cloves, crushed
8 sprigs fresh parsley
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme, or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
1/2 cup prepared horseradish, drained
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 450°.
Place the beef bones, meat, and trimmings in a roasting pan with the carrots and onions.
Roast in the oven for 30 to 40, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is browned.
Transfer to a stockpot.
Pour off the fat from the roasting pan and deglaze with the hot water, scraping the sides and bottom of the pan to loosen all the pieces.
Add this mixture to the stockpot along with the remaining stock ingredients. Add enough water to cover the mixture by 2 inches and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat and simmer the stock for at least 4 hours, uncovered.
Occasionally skim off any impurities that rise to the surface as it cooks.
Add more water as necessary to keep the mixture covered.
Strain, discard the solids, and let the stock cool.
Cover and refrigerate until needed (keeps up to 5 days in the refrigerator or can be frozen up to 3 months).
Combine the horseradish, lemon juice, sugar, and salt in a small bowl.
Just before serving whip the cream to soft peaks in a large chilled mixing bowl.
Fold in the horseradish mixture.
Note that the horseradish cream will not hold well.
Prepare as close to serving time as possible.
Prepare the beef:
Preheat the oven to 425°.
Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet or heavy sauté pan.
When almost smoking, sear the beef on each side for 3 minutes.
Season all over with salt and pepper and transfer the beef (fat side up) and drippings to a roasting pan large enough to also accommodate the vegetables later.
Cover the pan with foil and place in the middle of the oven.
Roast for 15 minutes and then turn down the oven temperature to 400°.
Baste the beef with the drippings and return to the oven.
The vegetables need to be added to the pan about 50 minutes before the beef is done, so plan accordingly.
At the appropriate time, place them around the beef, baste with the drippings, and cover the pan again before returning to the oven.
For rare beef, roast for an additional hour after reducing the oven temperature (1 hour, 15 minutes total); for medium-rare, roast 1 hour and 15 minutes after reducing the oven temperature (1 hour and 30 minutes total); for medium, roast for 1 hour and 30 minutes after reducing the oven temperature (a total of 1 hour and 45 minutes). You may, of course, roast the beef further, according to your own personal preference.
Remove from the oven and let the beef rest on a carving board for 5 minutes before slicing.
Reserve the drippings in the pan for gravy.
Prepare the Yorkshire pudding batter 1 hour before you are ready to serve:
Sift the flour, salt, and nutmeg into a mixing bowl and create a well in the center.
Add the egg and a little of the milk to the well, and begin whisking.
Gradually add the rest of the milk and whisk until the batter has a smooth consistency.
Let stand for 30 minutes.
Place 2 tablespoons of the hot beef drippings in a 6-inch square baking pan, or into popover molds, or the molds of a cupcake pan.
Heat the pan on the top rack of the oven and when it begins to smoke, add the batter.
Cook for 35 to 40 minutes if using individual molds, or until golden brown and crisp with a creamy-looking (but cooked) center.
Do not open the oven door until at least the minimum cooking time or the puddings will fall.
If using the square pan, cut the pudding into 4 portions.
Prepare the gravy while the beef is resting:
Pour 2 tablespoons of the beef drippings and sediment into a small saucepan set over medium heat.
Whisk in the flour, add the beef stock and port, and bring to a boil, while stirring.
Simmer for 2 minutes while stirring and transfer to a gravy boat.